(St.Petersburg White Nights Marathon)
flaspb.narod.ru/wnwn.html
All my life I’ve heard about, read about,
and studied about Russia; and now I have the opportunity to visit this
wondrous place. The name of this opportunity is “The XVII International
White Nights Marathon. My friend, Dennis Martin, and I are traveling with
‘Kathy Loper Events’; and this latest adventure of mine begins with a 3-1/2
day layover in Paris. We then will fly to St. Petersburg, Russia for a
4-1/2 day stint that includes the race. From here we will take an overnight
train-ride to Moscow for 3 full days of sightseeing in this nations’ capitol
city.
Day 1: June 17
After a 1-hour flight to Chicago and a
2-hour layover, we take off for Paris at 5:40pm with an expected arrival
time of 8:50am (7 time zones). I don’t believe that I’ll ever get accustomed
to the rigors of travel; think I’ll do some reading.
Day 2: June 18
Paris, Frances’ capitol and largest
city, is situated on the River Seine.
It’s 2.2 million people account for
20% of the country's population.
Seine River
Paris, France
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Following a 7-1/2 hour flight and quite
a bit of down time at the CDG airport, we are bussed to “The Hotel des
Ducs de Bourgogne”, which is ideally located in the heart of Paris. It’s
now 1:00pm and after registering and dumping our bags, Dennis and I head
out into the big city for some much anticipated sightseeing. We do a short
walk-about and then take the Metro to the Arc de Triomphe. I had never
seen the Eiffel Tower (1889) when it was lit up at night so we now find
ourselves at the base of the tower when at 10:00pm the switch is thrown.
(neat stuff) It has taken us forever to find our way back to the hotel
and at 12:30am, we shut it down for the night.
Day 3: June 19
| We partake in a late breakfast in the
hotel and discuss our priorities for the day. Then we walk to the Louvre
and take in the requisite ‘Mona Lisa’, Venus de Milo, et al. A leisurely
walk brings us to Notre Dame, another ‘must-see’. Again, we tackle the
underground; which deposits us at Montmartre. Here we must walk up the
hill and climb the steps to the highest point in Paris, “The Basilique
Du Sacre’ Coeur. After dinner, the entire group of 24 enjoys a well-narrated,
tour-boat ride up and down the River Seine. |
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Day 4: June 20
Although the alarm sounds at 6:00am,
we only manage to ‘debed’ at 6:30am. Dennis and I jog over to the ‘Jardin
Des Tuileries where we indulge in 35 minutes of light exercise which is
followed by an enjoyable cool down walk back to the hotel. After a quick
shower, and a not-so-quick breakfast, we head out, maps-in-hand. Todays’
touring begins at Sainte Chapelle complete with an English speaking tour-guide.
This is an exceptional place but you must avail yourself of the guides
to realize the full potential of this place. They offer a package deal
which includes a journey through the ‘Plaise de Justice (Conciegerie).
Later, we hoof it to the Musee D’orsey. I must confess that I can feel
my energy beginning to flag and I get the feeling that I am all ‘arted-out’
for my enjoyment level is noticeably on the wane. Fortunately for me, Dennis
comes to the rescue by springing for a sit-down lunch complete with desert.
(Hmmm, I should have gotten a doggie bag.)
I’ve taken a short nap at the hotel
and at 6:00pm we are back out the door to visit the ‘Hotel des Invalides’
and the ‘Englise Du Dome’. This proves to be at least a 3-mile round trip
excursion. Man I’m done: 3 consecutive nights of being up well past midnight
coupled with very little sleep on the trans-Atlantic flight is all taking
a toll on this tired, old man.
–GOOD NIGHT-
Day 5: June 21
Jardin des Tuileries |
With only ½ a day remaining of
our stay in Paris Dennis and I decide to revisit the Jardin des Tuileries.
From here I head over to the ‘Place de Concorde’, and then I take in a
few more gardens as well as the beautiful architecture that surrounds me
as I make my way back to the hotel. At noon we all board the bus for a
short ride to the CDG airport where we board a plane that will whisk us
through another 2 time zones as we fly ENE to St. Petersburg, Russia. |
Day 6: June 22
St Petersburg is the 2nd largest city,
and the largest seaport in Russia. Nestled on the eastern shore of the
Gulf of Finland, St. Petersburg is “the window to Europe”. Five million
people call this place home. Around 1914 its’ name was changed to Petrograd
and in 1924, upon Vladimir Lenins’ demise, it was renamed Leningrad. Finally,
in June of 1991, the city reverted to its’ original name. Basically, St.
Petersburg is comprised of a mainland and 42 river islands, hence the need
for over 300 bridges: many of these being ‘draw bridges’ and they are in
the ‘up’ position from 1:00am to 5:30am to allow for sea traffic. During
WWII, the Germans laid siege to the city for 900 days at the cost of 1million
Russian lives; but the city never fell. The city is named in honor of St
Peter the apostle and not in honor of its’ architect Peter the Great, as
I had always believed.
St. Petersburg
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Following yet another bus ride, we
arrive at our hotel at about midnight. The Hotel Pribaltiyskaya is located
on Basil Island and it is one beautiful place. We dump our bags and head
out to do some food/water shopping, and then it’s lights out at 2:00am
with a 7:00am wake-up call. By 9:00am we’re back on the bus for a full
days’ tour. There are many sights included in todays’ itinerary beginning
with The Hermitage (the third largest museum in the world after the Louvre
and the Metropolitan), the Kronstad (naval fortress), and the Peter and
Paul Fortress that is located on an island and has 2 bridges that access
the mainland. This place was home to many of Russia’s former emperors and
empresses. Also, we see the Central Navy Museum and the Isaac Cathedral,
the 4th largest cathedral in the world.
I’m back in the hotel at 5:15pm,
and after setting “the American in Russia shower speed record”, I rendezvous
in the lobby with our group as we ‘get on the bus Gus’ for a short jaunt
over to the Nikoleyevsky (The Folklore Center) for a show followed with
a dinner. The show proves to be an amusing, creative, and entertaining
affair that involves grand musicianship, dance and humor. The ‘upscale’
dinner is not the usual fare; but rather, it includes caviar and the wine
of your choice all with the accompaniment of a lone, enthusiastic pianist
who favors ‘classical music’ that is readily identifiable to even this
less-cultured listener.
Well, it’s after 12:00am and our
wake-up call is for 6:30am so I best turn in.
Day 7: June 23
Although I’m beginning to grow weary of
‘hotel buffet breakfasts’, I just can’t bring myself to pass on their inherit
convenience; especially after oh so many cups of strong, foreign coffee.
We tourbus over to the boat dock
where we board a hydrofoil that provides a fun crossing to Peterhof, which
served as Peter the Greats’ Pleasure Palace. Peterhof consists of a large
palace and its’ extensive grounds along with numerous fountains. After
a lengthy walk-about we take the time to lunch and shop. Afterwards, we
are delivered to the race-site. It turns out that even something as simple
as a race is rife with Russian bureaucracy. Thankfully, Kathy Loper has
taken on the daunting task of registering all of us race hopefuls, as well
as collecting all of our bibs, all of our race packages, etc. Believe me,
our Kathy is as tenacious as a Russian bear. 1-1/2 hours later, word has
drifted back to the bus that “ you all might as well go to dinner” as Kathy
continues her wrangling. Seven of
us decide on ‘Italian’ and enjoy
a ‘scrumptious’ dinner at |
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Mama Roma’s. What a fine way to ‘carbo-load’!
At long last, we manage to find our way back to the hotel and I shut it
down for the evening.
Day 8: June 24
RACEDAY
I awake rather early and make my
way downstairs for a long, leisurely breakfast. Because we tourist have
been on our feet for oh so many hours on each of the last 6 days, I have
decide to spend this afternoon in the comfort of my room forcing fluids
and resting my legs. The ‘White Nights Marathon’ has a 5:00pm start time
so we’re on the bus at 3:15 and at Dvortsovaya Square (the race start/finish)
at 4:15pm. Our driver has found a spot near the square and he will remain
here until 9:00pm when he will make the first of 2 runs back to the hotel.
It is so convenient to just chill out here on the bus, and to have a place
to store our bags.
Things get off to a horrendous start as
word has filtered through the crowd back to the bus that 83-year old Doris
has suffered ‘lightheadedness’ (de-hydration) and has gone down. She was
merely taking in the sights and the pre-race activity when the heat and
humidity had caught up with her. I guess the ‘silver-lining’ is this all
occurred before the start of the race which means her 2 daughters are still
close-at-hand; and, the 2 doctors that are part of our group are able to
check out her condition and get her onto an ambulance.
(Talk with me if you wish to hear
more about Doris’ adventure.)
The marathon
and the ½-marathon start at 5:00pm, and the 10K and 5K, shortly
thereafter. This presents a minor hurdle to the faster runners of
the shorter races, as they must weave a path through the hoards of folks
that had started out in front of them. As for the course itself, there
are markers at every 5K (and yet I managed to miss quite a few of them),
sponge stations and aid stations but very few ‘water closets’. On the other
hand, this is Russia and I came here fully prepared to ‘go with the flow’.
From the outset of the race I have
decided on a run/walk strategy that will consist of more run and less walk
than is my usual custom, and as the race unfolds I feel comfortable with
the idea of ‘pushing it’ just a tad more than normal. However, in spite
of this up-tempo effort, I arrive at both the 5K and the 10K with times
noticeably slower than I anticipated. Oh well, I find it not too difficult
dealing with this disappointment because of all the fun and excitement
that is taking place all around me. A real plus is the figure-8 layout
of the course as it allows for us to view the many other participants as
they ‘come and go’ in their attempt to meet the challenge that each of
us has taken on, all the while leading us pass the many cathedrals, golden
domes, and golden spires of this glorious city. It’s all kind of surreal
to run in such a historic/beautiful place as St. Petersburg.
Dvortsovaya Square
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Eventually I find my way back to
Dvortsovaya Square in an ego-deflating 4:41:xx (obviously a long course
-ha-) Heck, it has taken me so long that all the porta-johns are long gone,
as is our bus with my drop bag. This poses no serious problem as I spend
my time drinking fluids and rehabilitating my legs. The bus has now
returned and half-full, it is making its’ way back to the hotel when we
slow down when passing an accident scene where a motorcycle driver lies
motionless on the roadway, his face covered with a jacket. A somberness
pervades the bus and our joy is quieted as is all talk of our minor, post-race
aches and pains.
After a soothing shower, 4 of us
meet in one of the hotels many restaurants for a midnight celebration dinner.
You know, I’m feeling a little tired so I think I’ll call it a night.
Ps In spite of being out on the course
for an ungodly number of hours,
I never encountered darkness during the race: which is held in the evening.
Day 9: June 25
Dang, it’s only 6:30am and I’m already
awake.
Todays schedule is: breakfast, pack, checkout, store our luggage and be
on the bus at noon. We’re now on the way to Pavlov’s Palace and then we
take in Puskin’s (Russia’s equivalent to Shakespeare). We need to be back
at the hotel lounge by 10:00pm so that we have time enough to make our
way to the ‘Red Arrow Express’ (railroad) by midnight for an 8-hour, 740KM,
ride SSE to Moscow.
Ps I ran into Doris in the hotel lobby
and she’s her jovial self again, and shows no signs of her mishap at the
race-site, save for a small bandage on her right elbow. Everyone is so
relieved to find her in such good spirits. Heck, she looks better than
I do and she’s 83. (Not one word.)
Day 10: June 26
Moscow (Moskva) is the capitol and
largest city of Russia with a population of 12.4 million. Located in the
west-central portion of the country, it has been the political, cultural,
economic and transportation center of Mother Russia and has served as the
‘base of command’ for all Russian czars until 1912 when St. Petersburg
was named the capitol city.
Moscow, Russia
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After we are safely ensconced in
our 2-person cabins, the train departs promptly at 12:00am. (Wasn’t it
Gladys Knight and the Pips who took the ‘Midnight Train to Moscow’?) This
is a really fun experience and Kathy, our tour operator, is making her
way up and down the aisle-way metering out champagne from one of the 5
bottles she brought on aboard to celebrate a ‘job-well-done’ in St. Petersburg.
If it were up to Kathy we would party all night, her mantra being “you
can sleep when you get home”. Eight hours and 2 time zones later we arrive
in Moscow where we are met by Wilma, our local tour-guide, who delivers
us to the Ukraine Hotel (no a/c). After showering, shaving, and breakfasting
we climb abroad the latest in a long line of tour buses. At 10:30am we
start out on a citywide tour. We make a cursory stop at The Red Square
and much to my surprise, it’s primarily GREY. You see, in Russian red not
only means the color ‘red’, it also means ‘beautiful’. The “Beautiful Square’
is home to Lenin’s Tomb; which surly is one of Russia’s most-visited landmarks.
At the Square one can find St. Basil’s Cathedral, with its’ 9 beautiful
domes. This cathedral was built by Ivan the Terrible to celebrate the Russian
victory over the Tartar Mongols who had ruled over Russia for 300 years.
And, off to one side of the Square sits the Kremlin.
After this mornings’ 4-hour tour,
I am heading out through the lobby to the food-store when Paula stops me
and asks if I would like to join in with a small group that is devising
a plan to ‘take in’ all the Metro stations on its’ famed inner-loop. Although
hot and tired, we intrepid travelers make our way to a ‘particular’ station
that lends itself to an ideal access point to said loop. What a grand idea
this is because each station has its’ own unique décor. In some
sites it’s the ceilings that are the attraction while in others it’s the
walls, i.e. in one station the walls are of ‘mosaic tiles’ while another
is replete with ‘stained glass windows’ and yet another offers up ‘ivory
relief’, etc, etc, etc.
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Worn weary to the bone, we opt for a quick
dinner and some cold, refreshing fluids. Unfortunately, in Russia there
is no such thing as a quick meal, and we are due to be in the hotel lobby
at 5:45pm for our bus-ride to the ‘Russian Circus’. Lesson #1 when traveling,
if you’re going to screw the tours’ timeline it’s best to do so when in
the company of the BOSS! Kathy makes a quick phone call and has the bus
driver swing by and pick us up on the way to tonights’ performance. All’s
well that ends well!
The Circus turns out to be
the usual ‘unusual’ feats of balance, daring, danger (9 Siberian tigers),
and clowns. Oh yeah, the next time you bump into me; ask for details germane
to the famed ‘circus photo’. We’re then bussed back to the |
hotel where I deal with the darn ATM machine
(don’t ask), food shop, shower, eat and attend to my journal. It’s already
1:00am and due in part to my lack of sleep on the train, I find myself
‘done in’ so I think I’ll douse the lights.
Ps Doris attended the Circus and she had
a rip-roaring time. I swear, every time I talk with her she’s laughing!
Day 11: June 27
We board the bus at 10:00am and
make our way over the bridge to the Moscow Kremlin.
There are 14 Kremlins in Russia, each
located in a different city. Kremlin means fortification and Moscows’ Kremlin
dates back to 1147AD and it’s the oldest structure in Russia. Zounds, this
place is stunning: outdoors one gets to view the Czars (derived from Caesar)
Bell, the Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, the Bell Tower, many cupolas,
many domes, the Spasskaya Tower, the Cathedral of the Annunciation, the
Armory and more; inside are mainly religious artifacts, i.e. icons, chalices,
dipping bowls, and many, many bibles. One of these bibles is encrusted
with 1,500 diamonds!!! What’s fascinating to me is it’s the church relics
that have survived the many, many fires that have besieged Russia over
the centuries because churches were not constructed of wood, as were the
political buildings, the palaces, etc. In addition to the relics, there
are areas that display armaments, the queen’s dresses and gowns, and summer
carriages and winter sleds. Also, there are individual glass enclosures
that display the gifts that Russian Royalty had received from a variety
of European and Baltic nations. Yes, there is a display case dedicated
solely to Faberge’.
Okay, it’s now 2:30pm and our tour
guide is officially off-duty; but rather than take the bus back to the
hotel, a few of us opt to remain in the neighborhood and cruise about the
area outside of the Kremlin. Now this group of 8 has once again splintered
as George and I decide to head back to the hotel. Neither of us wishes
to take the trolley preferring instead to walk the 1-1/2 miles; we need
the exercise.
Back in my room, I’ve updated my
journal, and am now just ‘mellowing’ out on my bed. A rumor is circulating
that a few folks will meet in the lobby at 6:00am tomorrow for a group
run; boy am I ready.
Day 12: June 28
| Yeah, I finally manage to get in
some light exercise, albeit a slow, painful 40 minutes of jogging and 20
minutes of walking. After a shower and a quick breakfast, a few of us hop
a trolley to Red Square and as 9 of us stand in line to view Lenin’s (underground)
Tomb, a ‘Changing of the Guard’ (3 guards) at the Eternal Flame is taking
place. This particular Eternal Flame is a memorial to all the fallen soldiers
of Russia’s many conflicts. Viewing Lenin’s Tomb proves to be both unique
and eerie. What’s difficult for me to understand is why the Russian people
allow him to ‘lie in repose’ here in Red Square. Beginning in 1991 the
Russian populace have been granted much more freedom than they’ve previously
experienced and they are now more aware of the truth surrounding their
former leaders. They are no longer ‘enamored’ with Vladimir Lenin or Joseph
Stalin: so, why does Lenin hold such a place of honor? Could it be
that it’s because so many tourists queue up to visit this guy? Anyhow,
the group of 9 has splintered and re-splintered and now Krista and I find
ourselves' inside St. Basil’s (great idea). Next, while in the process
of fulfilling our duty as tourist, we do some |
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obligatory shopping. While doing so, we stumble
upon an innocuous ‘archeological (underground) museum’ that proves to be
a nice break from the heat and humidity and museums and cathedrals. You
know, I seem to be taking advantage of every opportunity to eat ice cream.
This is either due to a major effort on my part to combat the stifling
weather; or, it’s because ice cream taste so good! Sated with
touring, we 2 opt to take the trolley back over the bridge, shop for more
water, and retire to our rooms where we prepare ourselves for tonight’s
‘farewell dinner’.
Dinner, a fun time, is followed
by a slow walk along Arabat Street (old shopping district) and another
bus ride; this being the last time being bussed to the Hotel Ukraine where
we pack our bags and ready ourselves for tomorrows flight through 9 time
zones.
Day 13: June 29
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I’m up at 3:00am and on the bus
at 4:00am, and a loooong day of travel is underway. All in all, this was
a very nice trip. I thoroughly enjoyed the many, many tours we took while
visiting 3 of Europe’s major cities. I enjoyed the time I spent with the
33 other members of our entourage and I also enjoyed running a marathon
in such beautiful, unusual setting. Finally, I hope you enjoyed my reliving
this trip for you. |
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