Tanzania, Africa 2007
February 28 to March 13
www.kilimanjaromarathon.com
www.kathyloperevents.com
Feb 28: This is the
beginning of 1-½ days of travel and it entails a 1-½ hour
flight to Detroit (1 time zone), a 3-hour layover, and an 8-hour
trans-Atlantic flight to Amsterdam, Netherlands (6 time zones).
Mar 1: After a
1-½ hour layover I board yet another plane for an 8-½ hour
flight (2 time zones) to Moshi, Tanzania. Gee, I left my house at noon
on Wednesday and a mere 33 hours later I find myself in the heart of Africa!
The definition of travel is “when you
walk a path where all the signposts are unfamiliar”.
Mar 2: Things
are off to a grand start as my 55-pound duffel bag (no wheels) is
waiting for me at the airport luggage carousel. I’ve also carried a 23-pound
backpack filled with my key essentials. Hey, that’s more than ½
of my body weight. Anyhow, today is a day of rest that I’ve purposely built
into my itinerary in an attempt to recover from any jetlag that may be
at play. For now, I’m off for a walk-about; I have all day tomorrow to
organize my stuff for race day.
Oh, Oh. After
training in temperatures ranging from the mid 20’s to the mid 30’s for
the last month, I find that Moshi (3 degrees south of the equator)
seems to be a tad hot and humid! Or, could it be just me? After 3 separate
strolls in 3 different directions, I shower, shave and then make my way
towards the dinning room. Kathy Loper, our intrepid leader is back from
safari, along with a huge contingent of our adventurers and we all get
to meet one another at a ‘get-together’ dinner. We are spread out amongst
3 hotels and there seems to be no rhyme or reason to these logistics (to
me). Anyhow, dinner turns out to be a dynamic affair as one might expect
when 27 adventurers are brought together.
I’m back in my
room now and I’m trying to sleep but I find myself as alert as a Cape buffalo
that’s being stalked by a pride of lions. Not quite sure if this is due
to the 9-hour time shift I just suffered through; or, the high level of
excitement that has taken hold of me.
Mar 3: Dang, I
was wide awake until 3:30 am when Peter, my roommate, started snoring,
and he kept it going until 4:30 am. In spite of getting very little sleep
I forced my feet onto the floor at 7:00 am in hopes of resetting my circadian
clock.
We’re meeting
in the lobby at 10:00 am for a side trip to the ‘Amani House’. This is
a home for orphaned children and the goal is to rehabilitate these children
and try to place them with their relatives. Tanzania is too poor a country
to expect people to take in strangers when they are struggling to feed
their own children. Here we disperse the many gifts that we had brought
along for just this occasion. Wendy, an employee of Nike in the San Diego
area, has brought many t-shirts, and many pairs of new shoes, soccer balls,
air pumps and a large check from her employer. The famed runner, Joanie
Benoit Samualson (she’ll be climbing the same route up Kili as I)
is among us, and she too has brought a large check from Nike, her sponsor.

The guiding light
here is Elaina, a 26-year old Minnesotan who has taught here, on and off,
for 6 years. She speaks Swahili quite well and manages all the translation
duties as well as addresses all of our inquiries as she provides us with
a guided tour. The Amani House does an outstanding job of feeding, educating,
and finding homes for these children. Unfortunately conditions here leave
much to be desired. The kitchen consists of 1 outdoor grill (fireplace).
The restrooms are ……..not nice. And, I noticed that 1 of the boys bedrooms
housed 12 bunk beds. The kids sleep 3 to a mattress. (We didn’t give
enough) In gratitude, the children put on a show for us and they sing
and dance with drums beating in the background. These children, like most
people in Tanzania, are both friendly and outgoing. At times they will
approach you and begin a conversation just to practice their English. They
are quick to smile and laugh, these poorest of the poor, and they provide
a sense of reality to those of us who are far more fortunate.
After a short
walk we arrive at the stadium that will serve as the staging area, start/finish
line, and site of the post-race party for race day. We’ll be walking from
the hotel to the stadium in tomorrows’ early morning darkness so it’s nice
to get the lay of the land. It’s only noon and already the sun is exacting
a steep toll on me!
After a little
reading and a quick shower, I head downstairs for a 4:00 pm race briefing
held by ‘Wild Frontiers’. This is the first time that all 28 of us are
present and accounted for. Hey look, there’s Clyde. I met him in Antarctica
back in 2005 as we both had berths on the Vavilov, one of the 2 ships we
chartered for the trip across the Drake Passage, and in-and-around King
George Island. It’s always nice to run into old friends. He tells me he
has just finished ‘The North Pole’ marathon. Hey, I’d much rather be running
in that cold than in this heat.
It’s time to pack for tomorrows’
race.
Mar 4: I’ve been
wide-awake since 1:30 am and out of bed since 4:00 am. I get to enjoy some
peaceful moments of solitude here in the dinning room which has opened
early just for us racers. The race is comprised of a marathon, a half-marathon,
and a 5K, but it’s difficult to get a handle on the total number of entrants
for each event. Best guess is 200 in the full, 300 to 500 in the half,
and roughly 1000 in the 5K; most of whom are children who run their hearts
out for that prized t-shirt. Oh well, I better get race-ready.
Almost unheard
of in Africa, the race starts on time (6:30 am) and it’s almost
light enough to run safely. Here, some of the roads look like minefields
because the potholes are so huge. Also, there are speed bumps across the
roads in places and you must look for them because they are the
same color as the streets. As if to illustrate this point, less than 1/4
mile into the race a French woman thuds to the ground and needs to be helped
to her feet. She appears to be ‘shaken, not stirred’.
The first ½
of the race is a series of ‘long pulls’ with no huge hills in the offing;
nevertheless, these ups have an effect as does the debilitating diesel
fumes that envelop us. It’s hot, sunny, and humid as I make my way downhill
while on the opposite side of the road the lead pack of 30-some Kenyans
and Tanzanians glide effortlessly up the hill. They run with such grace
that one is tempted to stop and admire what true running should be rather
than what I perpetrate on the running community. They’re simply beautiful
to watch.
I know that the
2nd half of the race is appreciably more difficult than is the 1st ½
half, and that the temps will be significantly higher, adding yet another
degree of difficulty so I’m trying to put miles in the bank, which is normally
a no-no in a marathon, but every case is different so I’m going with this
plan.
The locals line
the course and serve as an encouraging force, but I can’t help but spend
time kidding and laughing with them along the way as I practice my (lack
of) Swahili on them. Everywhere you look you see individual marathoners
surrounded by 5 or 6 kids who simply jump in whenever they choose. They
cannot help but run! One gentleman runs with me for 4 or 5K. He
is attired in dress shoes, dress socks, dress pants and a dress shirt.
Suddenly he stops, I’m going too slowly and it’s driving him crazy.
I swear the sun
is different here in Africa than it is in the states. Here, it attacks
you and the ½-way point (2:26:XX) seems a tad too early to
be surrendering to this ‘vile enemy of runners’. Now the course turns ugly
and from 21K to 31K (6.2 miles) we encounter a series of ups’, which
in reality is one long climb that gets progressively steeper. My walk/jog
strategy is history as I power-walk upward and onward. Still, this effort
allows me to pass a few fellow ‘runners’. Another bend in the road produces
another long, drawn-out hill; but if you possess the energy required to
raise your head you will see Kilimanjaro growing nearer and nearer as we
approach the Mweka Gate. Kili is capped in snow and ice and it’s a chilling
experience; but not literally, for we are not so ‘capped’. Down here the
heat is having its’ way with us mortal beings. You see people stretching
and/or retching on the side of the road and worse yet we are walking...downhill.

I meet up with
Jack Chelem from the Lone Star state and together we make our way through
the aid stations, the roadside showers, and the sponge stations but nothing
can bring us back to life; so, ever so slowly, we make our way back to
the stadium content with just finishing. (5:24:12)
After a lengthy
stay in the medical tent where I sought treatment for blisters and 2 severely
cramped calf muscles, I now am gingerly making my way back the Keys Hotel.
If you could see me pre-ambulating along the pocked-marked road, you would
surely laugh at such a pathetic site.
Following a shower
and a nap (go figure), I make my way to the pool area where ‘Wild
Frontiers’ gives us a briefing on what to expect on our upcoming climb
of Kilimanjaro in 2 days. Next, we enjoy a huge barbeque outside on the
veranda. I then take my leave and climb the steps to my room.
Learn as if you were to live forever,
Live as if you were to die tomorrow.
Gandhi
Mar 5: Today is
a day of rest. At first it was my plan to carry as much as possible on
my back during the climb and give the remainder of my gear to the porters.
Plan B: after running the marathon I think I’ll give as much to
the porters as possible and carry as little as possible. However,
the porter’ load is limited to 12 kg (26-½ lbs) and this
means I’ll be carrying more than 25 pounds up the mountain. I’m actually
carrying some of my roomies stuff. It’s amusing to watch as everyone adjust
and re-adjust their 2 loads before the weigh-in.
After a short
break on the back patio, 6 of us are on our way to Moshi for some shopping.
Nothing catches my eye as the most intriguing part of the day is spent
going through ‘markets’ and in less than 1 hour we are on the way back
to the hotel. Let’s eat! I follow a delicious lunch with a much-needed
nap in my room. I feel completely knackered and am delighted that we are
not starting the climb today because it’s doubtful I could handle a 6-7
hour trek with such a heavy pack in this heat. I’m hopeful that I will
do a good job of recovering because it is my wish to enjoy the climb
rather than suffer through it. We shall see. I’ve committed myself
to spending the remainder of the day drinking, eating and resting -------that
sounds easy enough.
Mar 6: Everyone
is up bright and early in anticipation of the start of our climb. I pack,
I go down for breakfast, and then I pack some more. I store my money and
passport in the hotel safe and 1 duffel bag in the hotel storage room.
I’ve thrown the ‘porter duffel’ on a 4 x 4, and jump on board the bus with
my oversized backpack. We arrive at the Umbwe Gate, which is 1 of 6 routes
up the mountain. The Mweka Route is only used for exiting the park. The
Gate sits at 5200 ft and our first campsite is at 9375 ft. So, with 4175
ft of climbing along a 5-½ mile long trail in front of us, it’s
time to get underway.

(Editors note: According to the Mountain
Madness and Alpine Institute web sites “Umbwe is the shortest and the most
difficult of all the Routes on Kilimanjaro”. It should also be noted
that 5 different climbers had altimeters and so we are always provided
with 5 differing opinions on how high we are at any given time. Therefore,
I resorted to the info that was provided in our itineraries. This data
is also suspect.)

Our first day
takes use through the ‘rainforest climate zone’ on the mountain and I brought
enough wet weather gear to survive a hurricane and a flood. Fortunately,
there is no rain to be had but we do encounter mucky, slimy, footing over
trails and boulders they served as our, rather steep, pathway to the Umbwe
Caves, our first campsite. At long last (approx 7 hours) we stride
into our campsite where one can’t help but notice that our tents are pitched
on the side of the mountain. (Throughout the night I found myself wedge
against the exit flaps of our tent.) There are about 20 of us taking
advantage of the Umbwe Route. There’s another 7 or so coming up the easier
(?) Machame Route. We are to rendezvous at Barafu.
Our duffels are
lying on the ground and we all immediately begin the ‘daily ritual’ of
getting our duffels and backpacks into our tents, setting up these high-end
sleeping quarters, cleaning ourselves, hydrating, and refueling, plus all
the other things that are best done before nightfall.
Life in tents
is always a curious affair, especially the mess tent, which provokes much
angst within me as I find so few foods even the least bit palatable. (It
should be noted that the food was well received by all and there was something
at every meal that appealed to me.) Sleepwise; I have been averaging
about 3 hours per night since departing the states, and although I am rather
tired this evening, I manage only snippets of sleep as I spend the majority
of my time sliding to the bottom of the tent and then rearranging my thermorest
pad, and my sleeping bag, and myself to higher ground. Also, my bag (-30
deg’s) is much too warm for these lower elevations and in spite of
sleeping in shorts and a coolmax t-shirt, I was literally sweating inside
my unzipped bag. Ugh!
He who climbs the highest mountains,
Laughs at all tragedies, real or imagined.
Nietzsche
Mar 7: Today we
exit the rainforest and trek up through the ’heather climate zone’, and
into the ‘moorland climate zone’. This entails some fairly steep
walking and not-so-safe ridges to negotiate. Our next campsite is situated
at the base of the Barranco Wall at 12,800 ft. Thus we climb 3,500 ft along
another 5-½ mile-long trail. (Ed’s note: All of the elevations
listed are from the campsite to campsite of each days travel and this does
not take into consideration all the ups and downs we traverse as we trek
in and out of valley after valley.)
I had managed
only 3 hours of sleep last night as Peter, my tentmate, slept on my left
and Carly, in the neighboring tent was positioned on my right, provided
me with stereo snoring. Also, with such a large group the sound of tent
zippers RANG OUT throughout the night. As usual, sleeping on a hillside
presents some minor obstacles to a good nights’ sleep. I’m up at 6:00 am
and into the trek by 7:30 am. After dealing with a mildly upset stomach
for the last 24 hours, I’m forced to ‘runs’ (ha) to the restroom
(bushes). My pills are packed in the porters bag so I must wait
for DRUGS. How dumb am I? Davis, one of our 8 guides, myself, and Wendy
form a small group who share no sense of urgency during todays’ effort.
Wendy stops to photograph every bird, tree, flower and shrub in the park
and this provides me with ample opportunities to rest. Wendys’ wish is
to create a book of photos as a reminder of her time on the Dark Continent.
Hey, there’s Mt. Meru.

Todays’ effort
exacts quite a toll on me and it appears that, once again, I am the least
capable of the group. I am always mystified by the danger of these treks
as I negotiate a huge rock-face by utilizing a variety of nubs and crannies.
Maybe it’s me! At long last we arrive at camp and begin the ’daily ritual’
although for me this ritual will vary just a tad. I had purposely carried
a heavier than necessary load (25 to 30 lbs) the first 2 days of our trek
forcing my body to adapt to working at altitude. Now I divest myself of
all unnecessary gear and put the onus on my porter. (My duffel still
weighs less than 25 lbs as I work my way through ‘consumables’ and I’ve
given away ‘just in case’ items and other things I deem useless.) I’ve
considerably lightened my load thus removing yet another possible excuse
for any sub-par performance that may await me. Think I’ll go eat!
One doesn’t climb to die, but to live!
Unknown
Mar 8: I’ve been
suffering some nausea for the last 2 days, and diarrhea for 1 day. Consequently,
I’ve put myself on Chipro and Imodium and they both are providing the necessary
relief that keeps me on the trails. However, this does necessitate my taking
in ‘more fluids’ on top the ‘more fluids’ required when one is dealing
with altitude. On paper we are only going from 12,800 ft to 13,000 ft today
all within the ‘moorland climate zone’, but within minutes of starting
out we are confronted with the Barranco Wall. The consensus is this is
a 1,000 ft climb, and the term Wall is certainly apropos. This Wall proves
to be both a dangerous and formidable challenge where one is required to
place his trust in handholds more so than in footholds. The Barranco campsite
serves as the juncture of the Umbwe Route and the Machame Route and after
2 days of having the trails to ourselves we are now joined by other climbers.
This only presents a problem at the beginning of the day when all the porters
are required to pass us on the wall so that they could get to camp before
we clients. (The guide/porter to client ratio for our group is 4 to
1) No problemo, as I make good use of these many opportunities to take
in some much needed oxygen and ready myself for the next push. The overall
distance today proves to be a mere 3-½ miles and it delivers us
to the Karanga campsite. After 5-½ hours I’ve slogged into camp,
dealt with the ‘daily ritual’, and made my way to the mess tent where I
gorged myself with copious amounts of food and drink. I’m always struck
by the amount of food that goes uneaten and then I remember the guides
and porters eat our leftovers! Think I’ll lounge about in my tent and sleep
perchance to dream-----as if I have a choice.
Dinner has come and gone and I’m shutting
it down for the night.
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If you cannot understand that there
is
Something in man that responds to the
Challenge of the mountains and goes
to meet it,
That the struggle is the struggle of
life itself,
Upward and onward forever,
Then you won’t see why we go!
George Mallory
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Mar 9: I spent
a lot of time in the tent last night and the total number of hours of sleep
that I amassed is the most I enjoyed since I launched myself into this
adventure. There’s no need to rush today because this is a short day; however,
the sooner we get into camp the more rest we can store up for the midnight
assault on the summit. This is an acclimatization day spent ascending sections
of scree and rock and then down into and up out of a main valley. We’re
heading for Barafu Camp at 15,100 ft. We spend the day entirely in the
‘alpine desert climate zone’, but don’t be mislead by this nomenclature.
The definition of an alpine desert is “Intense radiation, high evaporation
rate & huge temperature fluctuations. Prepare for a scarcity of water
and the thinning out of soil which produces unfavorable conditions for
plants, mosses, lichens and everlasting flowers.” It takes approximately
3-½ hours to negotiate the 2-½ miles to Barafu where I collect
my duffel and dump both it and my backpack into my tent. This signals the
weather gods to have some fun at our expense as we get to enjoy sleet,
snow and hail. My roomie has told me the game plan is to lunch at 2:00
pm and to dine at 5:00 pm. We’re to rest in our tents and be prepared to
depart for the summit at 12:00 am. I need to ready my equipment.

Lunch is huge
and delicious; there are french fries with tons of salt. It had started
to snow at noon and now everything is blanketed in white. Dinner is also
huge but most everyone is being very, very selective. We’re still bloated
from lunch. We now have some serious accumulation going on outside.
Mar 10: I’m up, we’re ready,
we wait…..then go. There’s another group immediately in front of us as
well as a private party of 2. I’m last in line as we make progress through
the freshly fallen snow, and up over the boulder-strew route. From the
outset I don’t feel in the game and when I stand erect to catch my breath,
I espy a small sampling of what lies in wait for me. The first section
of the climb up to Stella Point, which sits atop the crater, is projected
to take 6 to 6-½ hours with another hour allocated for the grade
up to Uhuru, the summit. Then, without any warning, I have decided “I don’t
want to do this anymore”.
(Ed note: when asked later what happened
and I explained this notion of “I don’t want to do this anymore”, everyone
said they understood. They didn’t. This feeling does not apply to just
Kili. I have crossed from my list Mt. Elbrus in July of 2007, and a return
trip to Aconcagua in January of 2008. No more mountains for me. Of course
I must now define mountain so I’m choosing some arbitrary number such as
16,000 ft. If it’s higher than that, it ain’t for me. The plan is to concentrate
on my running. My main goal has always been to marathon on all 7 continents
(I’m lacking Australia) and to marathon in all 50 states & D.C. At
my age this is ambitious enough.)
So I pass the
word to Rasin, the sweeper guide, and despite his protestations, and an
offer to carry my pack (no way), I make a hasty retreat back down the mountain.
It’s amazing the 2 distinctly different emotions that overcome me after
making such a heart-wrenching decision. First and foremost is complete
and utter shame; it actually has a weight to it. The second emotion is
relief, and this catches me completely off-guard. How can one sense relief
in quitting after putting so much time and effort into such an erstwhile
endeavor: but in retrospect, I guess this is (somewhat) understandable.
Back in my tent, I quickly fall into a deep, 7-hour sleep; the best rest
I experienced the entire trip.
From early morning
until just past noon, I stand on the trail and welcome all the climbers
back into camp. First comes those that the mountain has turned back, and
then comes the summiteers. “Hello to the camp. Let’s hear it for …..”,
I scream and it never fails to bring the slightest of smiles to the tiredest
of faces, as those already in camp hoot and whistle from inside their tents.
Hey look, there’s Dawn arriving last in 12-½ hours as she closes
the book on this chapter of our adventure. At 23, Dawn is the youngest
of the group and she hails from the Sunshine State.
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I’ve met them all, and cheered
them all and later when back in town more that a few climbers approached
me to say how much they appreciated my ‘cheerleading, i.e. “It lifted me
up” said Diane. “I didn’t know I had the strength to smile”, said Beryl.
“It was so cool to hear my name called out as I re-entered camp”, said
Wendy, etc, etc.
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Camp is in chaos.
People are either washing up, changing clothes, falling asleep or seeking
minor medical attention. Lunch is at 1:00 pm but no one can muster the
strength to partake so we begin the descent to Millennium Camp. It ‘s a
steep, steady 2,300 ft drop down 4 miles to our ‘final’ resting place on
the mountain. I can see a change in most peoples’ color and cadence as
we go lower into the oxygen-rich air. Camp is setup in the most beautiful
of locations and this only adds to the ‘good vibes’ that are reverberating
throughout the camp. Dinner is at 7:00 pm and we are warned to be prepared
for an early morning start for another long day of pounding downhill.
The mountains reserve their choice gifts
For those who stand upon their summits
Sir Francis Younghusband
Mar 11: Breakfast is
at 6:30 am and departure time is 7:30 am. A full nights’ sleep has certainly
had a healing affect on our troops and it’s great to see the smiles painted
on so many faces. It has taken only 4-½
hours and 6 miles of trekking to drop
another 7,400 ft to the Mweka Gate where we are able to begin the cleansing
process, and enjoy some food and cold beverages. All of us sign the log-out
book and some of us sign the summit book before boarding the bus back to
the hotel. We travel via the bumpiest of roads and then find ourselves
on the hilly section of the marathon course; so, many of us relive that
excoriating final leg of the run.
Back at the hotel
now and everyone is in the shower fighting for hot water, cold water or,
at the very least, wet water. For now, I’m relaxing in the dining room
while enjoying a grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich with tomatoes. Surely
this must be what heaven is like.
In the meantime 2 separate stories are
unfolding on the mountain.
1) Tim had gotten to Stella Point when
he feared that he was suffering some severe effects of high altitude. He
stopped and retraced his steps back down the 4,000 ft to the safety of
base camp. He then accompanied us down to Millennium camp later in the
day. Upon waking in the morning, Tim was rather put off by his not summitting
so with the approval of Eric, our lead guide, he hired a guide and a porter
to assist him in a 2nd attempt. At 7:30 am Tim headed skyward some 6,540
ft, straight through base camp, past Stella Point and onto Uhuru! At 2:00
pm, while enjoying the bus ride back to the hotel, the guide seated next
to me received a call from the summit. Tim had arrived! No time for photos,
Tim immediately headed down. All the way down! 14,000 ft down! At 8:00
pm that night, as we dined on the back patio, Tim walked out to join us.
He looked fresher than I!
2) Phil, on the other hand, served as
Tim’s counterpoint. A genial gentleman, and a grand storyteller, 74-year
old Phil is vastly overweight, thus opting for the easier Machame Route.
Phil struggled mightily for 2 days, often arriving in camp at 11:00 or
11:30 pm, well after the others in his party. The decision was made for
him to go down for the Barranco Wall presented an insurmountable obstacle
to him. One guide and 5 porters accompanied Phil down the Umbwe Route and
Phil required assistance every step of the way. Phil’s descent of 4 days
took much longer than all estimates and the party ran out of food! At 7:30
pm, Phil hobbled out onto the veranda and was greeted by a huge ovation.
Everyone was concerned for Phil’s safety and his appearance at the party
caused a flood of relief from each and every one of us.
Needless to say the party was a grand
success.
Mar 12: Today is a day
of rest and people are splintering into many different groups and heading
off in many different directions. It amazes me to see the relief in the
faces of all those around me. The pressure to perform is off and it’s time
to party.
Once again I
come face to face with the nightmare that is loooong-distance travel. We
leave the hotel en-masse at 6:00 pm, and I catch an 11-½ hour flight
to Amsterdam via Dar es Salaam.
Mar 13: Following a
3-hour layover, I board the plane for an 8-½ trans-Atlantic flight
to Detroit. Here I enjoy a 2-½ layover before the 1-½ hour
flight to Evansville that makes for the final leg of my journey. Pete collects
me at the airport and delivers me to my house.
If I cease to do, I will not be.
Unknown
Mount Kilimanjaro is actually made up
of 3 extinct volcanoes:
Kibo
19,340 ft
Mawenzi 16,896 ft
Shira
13,000 ft
There are 6 routes up Kili:
Rongai
Marangu
Machame
Lemosko & Shira
Umbwe
Mweka |
a northern approach
an eastern approach
a southern approach
western approaches
a western approach
western descent |

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